Monday, 17 March 2014

Surfing is not as cool as it looks

I got my shiny red surfboard. Whacked on some suncream and I was away.



This experiance takes me right back to that blustery day in Essouara. The day I thought I could windsurf.

For the first twenty minuets I got raped by the sea.

I was physically smashed by each breaking wave. My board flying away and my body being knocked up, down, backwards and under, often at the same time!

Eventually, through pure persistence rather than any strength or skill I got past the breakers and had a little lie down on the board before surfing in.

The waves were so big. I could catch them but they were so fast and aggressive I could only really get to my knees at best.

After an hour and a half of being boshed, I sauntered out of the sea and back to the campsite. With snot streaming out of both nostrils, salt water in my sinus', board rash on the front and sunburn on my back; I'm certainly not the stereotypical surfer dude. Especially as I had developed incredibly painful blisters on the tips of my nipples. Leftie's tip was white and twice his normal size!

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